Denman's Weekly Wine Review

Wine Trends By Denman Moody
In 2003, I wrote an article for “Houston Lifestyles and Homes” (and updated it here in 2005) about the wine scene in 2010. Some of my predictions that have already begun to materialize are:
1—After Italy in the ‘80s and Australia in the ‘90s and early ‘00s, Spain is the new wunderkind of the wine world. Priorat, Toro, Jumilla, Yecla, Rias Baixas, Campo de Borja and Catalayud are the “hot” regions, and Garnacha, Albarino and Verdejo are some of the “hot” grapes.
2—Riesling, particularly from the East Coast, is quickly gaining in popularity. With the vast majority of sommeliers and wine writers singing its praises, particularly as a “food” wine, it’s a can’t-miss.
3—Cabernet Franc is used for blending in significantly larger percentages. Dalla Valle started this trend with Heidi Barrett’s Maya, a 50-50 blend with Cabernet Sauvignon. This creation resulted in one of the best wines in the world.
4—What started with the “French Paradox,” the flight to drinking red wines is even more of a massive trend. Just last month, a study (on worms, no less) showed the beneficial effects of the highly acclaimed antioxidant resveratrol. Although the study implied that pills or red grape juice worked just as well, a comprehensive study from a Ph.D. in the late ‘90s concluded that the effect could only be obtained from wine, particularly red wine. As a matter of fact, in the recent study, the worms were given an amount of resveratrol equal to what a human would acquire from something like 100 glasses of red wine a day. Perhaps at that level, the pills would work.
Now that we’re about halfway between 2003 and 2010, what else is on the prognostication radar?
1—Except for business diners (read, expense accounts), more and more patrons will refuse to visit restaurants that mark up their wines 3 to 3 ½ times the cost. On the very low end, this practice may be acceptable to allow the restaurant to recover its costs involved in storing, serving, glassware, washing, etc. But when one sees a wine on a list for $60 or $65, and knows the retail cost was $20 (which means the wholesale cost to the restaurant was around $15), one tends to feel swindled. Or even worse, a $75 wine that is on the list for $225! The higher the cost, the lower the markup should be, within reason. And there are more diners each year who are aware of the costs of some of the wines as wine becomes more and more popular!
2—As a larger number of patrons become educated about wine, restaurants in turn will become more aware of vintages. Consider that 1991, 1992 and 1993 were not good vintages for red Bordeaux wines; however, there they were with their usual markups on wine lists in the mid to late ‘90s. Today, a significantly larger percentage of diners will have some knowledge of vintages and will not buy these wines. Since 1990, the only vintages for north coast Cabernets that were not at least very good were 1998 and 2000 (with some exceptions, like the 2000 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, which will knock your socks off). So as a general rule, avoid these two vintages.
3—There is a tremendous groundswell under way; the wines of Argentina and Chile. While the Malbecs of Argentina are flying high and the Cabernet Sauvignons are gaining ground rapidly, Chile is now all the rage. Many are familiar with Maipo Valley and some have heard of Colchagua Valley and Aconcagua Valley, but now we are discovering exciting wines from Casablanca Valley, San Antonio Valley and Cachapoal Valley, not to mention Maule Valley, Bio Bio Valley and Apalta Valley! Excellent Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Carmenere are being produced. And huge gobs of money and famous chateau and winery owners from throughout the world are throwing their hats in the ring, the most famous being Almaviva—a joint venture between Concha y Toro and Chateau Mouton-Rothschild. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot and Malbec are being planted as never before, and some believe the Bordeaux blends, possibly with the addition of Syrah, Tempranillo or Carmenere, may become the best reds.
4—Finally, I believe even more strongly that great wineries will emerge with little or no vineyards—some in wine wastelands. Since grapes and juice now can be shipped just about anywhere, just about anywhere will become the location for some wineries. By 2010, there might be wineries in places like Greenland, Moscow and Panama—who knows? And if global warming continues—temporarily, I hope—places now perfect for vineyards will become too hot, and locations that are currently too cold may become perfect. A dynamic example of this is already occurring—check out the Okanagan Valley in Canada. Amazing!